A sober Christmas (but a very good one nonetheless!)

Stage 4: Amritsar to Multan
Day 1: 58.9km Lahore
Day 2: 0.0km
Day 3: 135.6km Okara
Day 4: 0.0km
Day 5: 41.3km Sahiwal
Day 6: 81.8km Mian Channun
Day 7: 97.8km Multan

A clean, green, quiet city with wide boulevards and fast flowing traffic. I am, of course, referring to Delhi. Though it should be noted that this description is only the case when compared with the city of Lahore.


Eyes in the back of our heads would have been a significant advantage when approaching this city, and indeed any major town we have since passed through. I guess that mirrors on our handlebars may do a similar trick, but given the choice, I'd go for eyes. A motorcyclist almost took out me(or rather I almost took out him) in one manoeuvre as I tried to avoid an autorickshaw, and further along the road another autorickshaw ran into the back of me as I braked to come to a standstill in stationary traffic (minus the aforementioned tuktuk). It was stressful, dusty and dirty, but at least we got to rest for 2 days in our rat infested hotel. We preferred to refer to them as large mice while we were there, but they were definately rats!!

If the city was not fantastic, the complete opposite must me said for its inhabitants, and for all further Pakistani people we have met along the way. They are, without a shadow of doubt, the friendliest and most caring race of people I have ever come across in the 25 years of my existence. Everywhere we go we are offered cups of tea, cold drinks, food to eat and places to stay. Their hospitality knows no bounds. In the city of Okara we were taken on the back of a motorbike to the family home of one of the people we met on the street. It was the festival of Eid (one that lasts for 3 days and celebrates the sacrifice that Abraham was willing to make to god, being his son), and blood and guts of sacrificed animals lined the streets. We were entertained with good company, Islamic music and dance and provided with an evening meal. The food here really is fantastic.

The following morning we returned to witness the sacrifice of the family bull for Eid. It was quite a sight, and one which I will not go into. I have other photos, but figured that the ones below would suffice. Children watched on and not one shed a tear, or uttered a word of complaint; they were even eating their breakfast 2 minutes later beside the carcass. They already knew well enough where food on the table comes from and how it gets there.



before



after










After a lunch of the heart, liver and kidney's of the freshly butchered bull (almost the entire mass of meat is redistributed between poor friends and relations according to Islamic tradition, with the family just taking enough for a meal or two)we continued on our merry way. I have mentioned a long time ago that plain cycling can become monotonous, but here's another fact: we have now travelled over 500km without a single hill. Three times the road has inclined before declining as we pass over bridges over the train lines. THREE times in 500km we have had view of some description. I'm fairly sure that's further than the entire width of Ireland. And there's still more to go...

We arrived in Multan on Christmas Eve and have decided to spend a couple of rest days here. Our hotel is clean, has space to wash ourselves, clothes and bikes, and most importantly of all, is free from the pitter patter of tiny rat-sized feet. A Christmas (and even an entire November and December) without a single Christmas Carol is a Christmas well spent!

I hope you all had just a pleasant Christmas, and I wish you all well in the New Year.


Family we stayed with in Mian Channun