Day 1: 123.8km
Day 2: 83.8km
Day 3: 85.8km Aleppo
I don't ever remember actually deciding to come here. I remember thinking about it, I certainly did that, and I looked into the practicalities, but there was never a moment when I said "I'm going to Syria". It was Will who first suggested it way, way back in India, but we both decided then that it just wasn't feasible. But, after cycling through Gaziantep, I found myself turning down towards the border and now here I am 120km later in the wonderful city of Aleppo.Why is it so wonderful? There's old buildings and all the rest of it, but people who know me well (and even not-so-well), know I love to eat. There's a saying we have in our family that's basically an excuse for gluttony: "It's better to be a pig once, than half a pig twice". It means you can tuck into that second half of your Terry's chocolate orange safe in the knowledge that you're taking the better option. It would be irresponsible, and downright wrong, to wrap it up and leave it until tomorrow.
It kind of falls short when you go out and buy a second chocolate orange the very next day, and that's basically what I've been doing (6 times over)! But when every shop has pastries stuffed full of walnuts and pistachios, topped with coconut and smothered in syrup and honey, it's difficult to say no. I'm just glad I'm on my bike and have left the bullying pits of secondary school behind or I'd be in for a rough time on my return; I'll tell you that.
It looks like a covered a lot of ground on Day 1, but looks can be deceiving; as can road signs! I'd been following the E90 for over 300km (I just made up that figure, so no-one had better be smart and try prove me wrong and make me look stupid, I just can't be bothered to look it up myself), so when I saw the road branch off, with Gaziantep signposted in both directions and the E90 towards the right, I went with what I knew and turned right. It was only 10km up this road that they decided to place the wonderfully illustrative sign shown right!
I camped that night inbetween ploughed furrows of an olive grove and awoke to a strong headwind. This made me curse my undesired detour even more given that I should have been 20km further down the road that I was at that exact moment (every moment of the day!). I camped about 25km from the border and was, again, accosted by shepherds. This time, after once again declining proper accommodation (spending an evening with locals is an incredible experience, but also a draining one), it wasn't dinner on offer but milk straight from the sheep, which I boiled over an open fire and had with my dinner.After getting severely ripped off whilst changing money with a respectable, middle-aged man with a moustache (Hitler, Stalin and Sadam aside, who wouldn't trust a man with a 'tache?) and watching the news in an office I made my way to the border.
Cave men didn't have it so rough - they even had satellite TV!
Crossing the Euphrates
Food heaven
Food not-quite-so-heaven
4 comments:
Nice choice my friend, it pains me to not be with you. Glad the weather has warmed and camping is now an option, as you said it all seems downhill from here.
CONGRATULATIONS!! You may be half way in distance but I think you're over half way as regards difficulty. I was feeling your pain as i sat on the chair lifts in the middle of a snow storm above the french alps wrapped up in my ski gear! I know it's no comparison really (and the food was a bit more appetising!!).
Half the distance as the crow flies but looking at your chosen route, that is some crazy, disorientated crow!! The detour sounds cool though, sure it will be worth the extra miles.
Cool! You da man sucka!...they were some weird looking animal heads on that platter
Post a Comment